Beinn an Lochain

I have to admit that I was quite relieved and surprised to see the heavy snow clouds rising off the surrounding hills. There was little in the way of wind and the forecast was for heavy snow showers coming in from the east causing prolonged white out conditions on the hill tops. But behind us, the sun was still shining on Glen Kinglas



While we were walking a little further along the ridge, the clouds rolled back to give us our first glimpse of the summit. It looked quite impressive flanked by its huge drops down to the loch far below. I just hoped that the snow was a bit more consolidated on the steeper slopes at higher altitudes.



So far the snow as still very fresh and soft. A couple of days earlier there was hardly a drop of snow left on the hills in this area. The low swirling clouds reminded me that there could be a lot more very soon.



Soon we arrived at the first steep scramble on the ridge. We were the only people on the hill on Sunday, so there was little sign of the path under the new snow. I presumed it went up the diagonal snow line running from lower left to top right in this photo. At least that looked the easiest line of assent under snow conditions.



We walked to the start of the snow line on the rocky outcrop, but before beginning our scramble, my companion asked me to pose for a photograph on a rocky outcrop immediately above the cliffs that fell vertically to the valley floor. I obliged but I refrained from standing on the very edge. It was a bit too slippery and exposed for comfort.



We then looked at the steep slope which I assumed was the route to the top of this section of the ridge. My companion looked a little concerned at the steep snow in front of us .. as he asked.. is this safe ?



I assured him that it was as safe as houses... to which he replied ...

Ok .. I trust your experience .. you go first and be the avalanche indicator... I guessed he had read my blog ..

I didn't want to let my younger companion know I was a little concerned of soft snow .. so said .. ok ..no problem .. I will lead the way

Beinn An Lochain

To my mind, some hills are just crying out to be done in full winter conditions, and the one at the top of my list of "yet to do" was Beinn an Lochain, just off the Rest and Be Thankfull road in Argyle. I had this thought in mind last autumn and for preparation , I climbed to its summit, to give me some idea of what may be involved. I was impressed by its rocky ridge and, at times, narrow exposed path. It is just short of 3000ft high and was originally a Munro (hill of 3000ft or higher) until modern measurement technology shrank it a bit.

I made arrangements with a co worker to attempt the winter ascent on Sunday. I was a bit hesitant as the weather forecast was for rain on the lower slopes and possible whiteout conditions above 2000ft. Its not a mountain to get caught out in whiteout conditions as there are steep drops all around the route, but as winter is almost over, we decided it was possibly our last chance at the route before the snows disappeared for another year. I just hoped the possible whiteout conditions wouldn't mean it was my last chance ..end of story.

We parked in the lay by off the A82 at the start of the ridge walk. It was 9am and although the clouds where heavy looking and low, at least it wasn't raining yet. The snow was at road level although it was sparse and wet. The burn was easily crossed by the stepping stones as the water level was relatively low considering the recent weather.



It was a bit wet underfoot in the lower sections of the route. The snow hid the boggy holes which I found when my weight pushed through the white surface into the dark peaty water below.



Beinn an Lochain is a steep ascent right from the start and soon the views over loch Restil started to open up under the swirling snow laden clouds.



A sudden splash of sun broke through a narrow hole in the clouds behind us and brightly illuminated the slopes to the west of Glen Kinglas



Ahead, the ridge steepened considerably and the ground got drier as bog and moorland gave way to rock.



Surprisingly, the cloud level also got higher as we climbed higher. We stopped for a brief rest to admire the views when we reached the start of the main ridge



Sheer drops were now obvious on the left hand side of the ridge.



Loch Restil looked a long way down, yet I knew the steep climb was only starting. Although it was cold, it didn't feel much below freezing. The snow was getting deeper but it was still quite soft. I wondered about avalanches on the steeper slopes......

A dark day on the Buachaille

Once I had clambered up the steep head wall and out of Coire Na Tulaich , the rest of the walk to the summit was very easy easy. The views across the rest of the Glencoe hill range opening up to the north was dominated by the huge mound of Stob na Doire, which is still part of the main Buachaille Etive Mor ridge.



There was hardly a breath of wind but I was still very aware of how cold it was on the summit ridge. My breath started to form beads of ice on my beard. The snow underfoot was ice hard and frost formed deep patterns on bare rocks.



As I made my way to the summit cairn, I thought back to my last climb into Crowberry Gully, to rescue three other climbers who became crag fast just below the crux of the route. I recalled the feeling then that I was climbing in a huge deep freeze. The look of both fear and relief on faces when I reached the young climbers. I could hear the helicopter's rotors again, shattering the icy silence of the gully as the down draft threw painful ice chips high into the air. I could almost smell the stench of their dead companion whom I left 1000ft below.

Lost in dark memories..I suddenly awoke to realize I was almost at the summit cairn of the Buachaille.



Once I reached the summit, I looked over towards the Rannoch moor and thought of the people who will never see that view again, and also of the unfortunate people who never saw that view.



Perhaps this might be seen to some as a morbid post and perhaps it is.

But my recent day on the Buachaille reminded me just how precious life is and also how worthwhile it is to reach our goals, but only if it is within our ability to do so.

The unfortunate "climbers" that I have mentioned had never been on a mountain in winter condition before and had mistakenly climbed into Crowberry Gully thinking it was an easy route to the top.

An easy mistake to do.. but they paid a very high price for that mistake.

I walked in silence back to the bealach to begin my steep decent back down the mountain. I could see my avalanch indicator making his way there too.



As I approached the bealach, another two walkers appeared out the coire to add some scale to the huge barren mountainscape.



As I made my way slowly back down the steep icy head wall, I remembered climbing back down Crowberry Gully. The helicopter was full of the rescued party and I was left to descent by my own steam. It was not a pleasant decent that day, passing blood and hair remains on the way down.

I gave up serious winter climbing after that incident. I guess I lost my "bottle" that day too.

As I descended the headwall, I decided that this would be my last time on top of the Buachaille too.

There are plenty other hills in Scotland.. some easier and some harder ..but none of them hold such dark memories for me.

Avalanche Indicator on the Buachaille

The forecast for sunny sky and little wind, was partly true. There was no wind but there was considerable cloud cover just above the mountain tops. The still freezing temperatures gave me confidence that the snow on the head wall would still be consolidated and hard frozen. I crossed the River Coupall by the bridge and admired the view towards the Lairig Gartain.



The view into the Glencoe valley wasn't bad either. The Aonach Eagach looked particularly inviting ..perhaps another day's outing once the snow goes ? It is many years since I last traversed its narrow ridge.



When I reached the snow line in Coire na Tulaich, I turned to take this photo and noticed another lone climber not to far behind me. He was young, fit and travelling fast.



Rather that try to keep ahead of him, I decided it was a good time to rest a little and let him past. We exchanged pleasantries while we both put on our crampons. Then he was off. I smiled quietly to myself as he drew ahead.



We were approaching the steep head wall which is a notorious avalanche spot. I had checked the forecast before deciding on this route and was reasonably confident that the snow was in good condition... but with my years of experience in snow climbing ... I have found the best avalanche indicator is to watch someone else climb the steep stuff first. Yup.. I guess Im a selfish old bugger when it comes to my own safety. I watched as the young climber started out on the slippery slopes.



He seemed to hesitate about a quarter of the way up and I wondered if he was now wishing he had let me go first ? Then he struck out for the top. He managed without any further problems. I was now very confident that the snow was in condition.



I started my way up the snow bound head wall and I didn't hesitate at the quarter way mark. The snow was solid. It took the front points of my crampons easily but was hard enough to resist my boot breaking its surface. I enjoyed climbing the slope and forgot about the long distant memories of blood and hair in Crowberry Gully. I stopped and looked back as the slope eased near the top.



Looking back down the steep slope..I realized that a slip could easily had me speeding down the hard slippery surface for quite some distance before the rock walls at the bottom would abruptly stopped my fall.



I then remembered a young climber who fell 1000 ft down Crowberry Gully, tumbling head over heels on the steep abrasive snow and ice until he came to an abrupt stop, six feet from where I was standing.

I remembered the blood from his head wounds turning the white snow red, around my feet as I tried to stem the flow with my spare shirt. I remembered how utterly alone and helpless I felt as I tried to comfort him while my young brother ran down the mountain to raise the alarm.

As I waited with him while his life drained away into the snow, I heard faint cries for help.. far up in the gully.. one of the hardest winter gully climbs on the Buachaille. Yet this young man was wearing trainers and there was no sign of climbing equipment ?

I shook those sad and bloody images from my mind and was very glad that I had made it to the top of this head wall without incident.

Long Forgotten Memories of the Buachaille

As I started my climb to the top of the Buachaille, I recalled memories of the first time that I climbed it ... well over thirty years ago.

I was in the company of my father who sadly passed away a couple of years back. My elder brother Douglas who has great difficulty walking with damaged knees. My youger brother Alick who suffers from lymes disease and finds walking very difficult. My youngest brother Alistair who emigrated to Australia and also has health problems. I thanked my own god that I am still lucky enough to to climb mountains.

The Buachaille on my first trip to the top. My brother Alick is on the path at the start of the walk.



My father leads the way up the Coire, followed closely by Douglas



Douglas having lunch at the top of the Buachaille ...it was too cold to stop for a second lunch



Looking over the Rannoch Moor from the top. The view has not changed one bit in all those years.



I thought of you all as I made my way up the Coire towards the headwall. I also thought back to the day when a total stranger died slowly and painfully in my arms at the foot of Crowberry Gully. We are all better off than that poor guy, regardless of our own problems.

The accident happened very near this spot. However this photo was on another trip when I was with Douglas and his friend Alistair. It was my first attempt to climb curved ridge. We decided to turn back because of the amount of verglass ice on the ridge.



Its interesting to note the size of the rucksacks we carried in those days. We filled them with heavy objects and sometimes even rocks. We believed that carrying them made us fitter. Modern hill walkers now want the lightest of gear as they believe walking makes them fit. Perhaps its just my imagination..but most modern walkers look fatter rather than fitter ?

On Friday, I wore the same crampons and carried the same ice axe as I did on my first trip. However Im a lot older and fatter than those days, so there were no rocks in my rucksack this time. I felt that carrying 14 stones of my own blubber was going to keep me fit enough :-D

Iconic Buachaille Etive Mor

Buachaille Etive Mor at the entrance to Glencoe is Scotland's best known and most photographed mountain. Its easy to see why. Its steep rocky pyramid shape seen from the east attracts the eye like no other mountain. It rises abruptly from the Rannoch Moor to its highest point Stob Dearg of 3345 feet. Like everyone else who passes this mountain with a camera, I have taken many photos from all the well known view points.



In all kinds of weather



But unlike most photographers, who admire the mountain from a distance, I like to think I know it a little better than most.
I first climbed to its summit cairn by the tourist route over thirty years ago. I went with my father and three brothers. Unfortunately, for one reason or another, I am the only one left from that outing, who can still get to the top, or at least, I think I can ?

The winter is getting on and I had not worn crampons or carried my ice axe at all this year. I have walked a lot of lower hills but not encountered any snow worth mentioning. However ,the cold high pressure area over Scotland this week made me want to seek out some snow before its gone for another year. On Friday, I dusted off my winter gear and headed for Glencoe. The Buachaille looked as magnificent as ever.



Although there was not much snow left on its south eastern flanks, I knew there would still be a lot in Coire Na Tulaich. I was not to be disappointed..the tourist route to the top was still plastered with plenty snow and ice.



I scanned the head wall at the top of the tourist route with my binoculars to see if there was any other people heading to the top but I saw no one. The head wall is a notorious avalanche spot and many people have been killed over the years, when the steep snow slopes leading to the bealach, collapse under their weight. However I knew the temperatures were still well below freezing point and no new snow had fallen for a few days. I was more than willing to take the challenge and try to reach the summit cairn.



I was looking for snow and knew I would get my fill of it on the Buachaille. I had witnessed death on this mountain before. As I scanned the slopes, I recalled the sight of blood and hair on the steep icy slopes of Crowberry Gully. That memory changed the way I looked at this mountain for many years. This was my first time on snow on the Buachaille since that incident almost 30 years ago ....

A later Happy New Year to you all

I have not forgotten my blog.. but just a bit too busy to remember to update it regularly, so I do hope you all have a good new year.

I had a good start to my year and in the January Car sales, treated myself to a new, second hand car. I was looking for something that would be useful to me as well as getting me from A to B. My first thoughts were for a New Citreon Beringo Multispace vehilce. I thought it would be good for camping and also have enough power to tow the boat around, however when I actually sat in the driver seat of one.. I realised it was a bit too small for my liking.

So I went to the other extreme and bought myself a 4 wheel drive SUV. It should be ideal to get the boat up and down even the steepest slipways ..and across the firmer shores. Its a Peugeot 4007 and is a true delight to drive, especially in the recent snow.

Its what has been keeping me so busy lately..Im working hard to afford the fuel bills, but here she is in all her glory. I cant wait until the warmer weather to get the boat going again..launch and retrieval should be much easier now.