A Dream Adventure to the Small Isles

Before introducing my Summer Movie perhaps its worth mentioning the opening titles on my videos.


If you have watched the last two movies ..you may be scratching your head and wondering what "The Gurnard" logo is all about.

Wonder no more .. “The Gurnard “ is the name I gave to the large inflatable boat that I posted about in 2013. I still have it and have enjoyed many new adventures in it.

Looking back at the start of this year feels very much like a dream..even to me ..the sleepy one.

Here are four short videos which tell the story of a trip to the Island of Canna going via Eigg and Rum back in May .. and what a glorious four days it was.

I was still learning about editing techniques when I made these videos.. but although a bit rough around the transitions ..they still illustrate the mood of that adventure well. The Gurnard title start was not thought of when I made the movie

Eigg and how it inspired and changed me

I am always looking for inspiration to fuel the creating side of my nature on the journeys. I find that by carrying a camera with me, I take the time to seek out the natural beauty in the landscapes that surround me. I feel almost naked going for a walk without it and tend to rush to finish and get home.

Sometime I get so inspired by a view that I will then take the time to paint it. That happened with my walk up the Sgurr of Eigg and this is the result.



It was during this walk that I finally made up my mind to hand in my notice at work. Im only 56 but I have had a hard paper round since I was 17 and have now decided to call it a day. I will need to supplement my savings with part time work of some sort... but I will worry about that later.

I finish work in a couple of weeks time and my plan is to devote time to my painting. I guess that will mean spending lots of time in the countryside looking for inspiration as well as spending time in the studio developing my style. It should also give me plenty new blog material.

Yup... I’m looking forward to early retirement .. and I don’t think I will get too bored :-D

Eigg and Summiting the Sgurr

To reach the summit of the Sgurr is not as daunting a task as it may first appear. Although the vertical rock cliffs as seen from the eastern approach look un-climbable, there is a weakness in the northern flank that entails little more than a walk up a steep heather clad slope. I continued walking past the nose of the Sgurr for approx half a mile until I came to this line of assent. This photo gives a rough idea of the terrain at this point.



I then reached a small bealach in the main ridge which gave me my first view of the Island of Muck



A very short scramble up the bealach wall got me onto the main ridge when you then head back along towards the eastern end which is the highest point of the Sgurr. I watched another squall come across the sea from Muck. It was heading straight for me.



The path to the eastern end weaves its way around the south flank of the ridge and I had to be carefull as it was wet and muddy. Although there is no exposure on the ridge a slip could mean a roll of fifty yards before disappearing over the vertical edge.



I had to take shelter once again as the squall deposited its rain load on the ridge. When it abated, I looked at my watch and saw it was two hours since I had landed. The summit trig point was just ahead so I continued on my way.



A view looking back along the ridge from the way I had come, just as the squall started to clear.



Looking to the east and over to where the mainland would have been if the cloud was clear.



Looking towards the north and the Bay of Laig. Although I waited around fifteen minutes on the summit, I didn’t once catch a glimpse of the mountains of Rhum, but I was pleased to have made the top of the Sgurr of Eigg.



I was back at the harbour within an hour which meant the walk took me three hours including a couple of brief stops to let the showers pass. Im not the fastest walker in the world so having four hours between boats is plenty time for any reasonably fit walker to get to the top and back.

On the return boat trip I sat at the back of the boat while everyone else sat under cover. I knew from experience that the boat running with the wind and tide would not be as wet as crossing while it was fighting wind against tide. The cloud now hid the Sgurr from view completely. I was glad I saw some of the views when I did.



Back at the campsite at Arisaig, I caught my first glimpse of the sun since I landed on Eigg. It wasn’t the best of sunsets but it gave a nice warm glow to end my day.

The Sgurr of Eigg and its squalls

I wondered if there would be many fellow passengers getting off at Eigg with the intention of climbing the Sgurr. I prefer my hill walks to be in solitude rather than in the company of crowds. To my delight most folk stayed on the boat to go on to the Isle of Muck. Of the few that disembarked with myself, they headed for the cafe bar on the pier head. By the time I reached the monument commemorating the local people buying the island from its absentee owners in 1997, I was alone with my thoughts.



I stopped briefly for a photograph then hurried on as I wasn’t sure how long the walk would take. I had decided to keep walking for two hours. If I hadn’t reached the top by then, I would turn back to make sure I didn’t miss the boat back. Although I scurried on at a good pace, I felt relaxed walking in the beautiful surroundings.



Wild flowers grew in abundance along the narrow roads. Far more than on the mainland back home. I wondered if it was because of the islanders not using chemicals to kill weeds or pesticides to preserve crops, or perhaps not covering the roads with salt and grit in the winter months ? Butterflies and dragonflies were in abundance too.

Then the trees began to disappear and the open moorland started to open up. Ahead I saw the classical view point of the Sgurr of Eigg with the farmhouse on its lower slopes. I couldn’t resist taking the shot too but was a little sorry the sky was so grey and featureless looking.



Following a rough path, I was soon gaining height quite quickly in the moorland foothills. Looking back towards the mainland, I saw the weather was closing in a little and heavy squalls were now dumping their rain water over the sea.



The purple heather was in full bloom and looked lovely. The bog myrtle filled the air with a sweet peaty perfume, then the cloud descended on the summit hiding it from view. My mood darkened a little in sympathy with the darkening sky. Then I stopped to put my waterproofs on as the rain started to pour down.



Fortunately within five minutes, the squall had past and the rock started to loom out the mist. I looked at my watch and saw an hour of my landing time had gone.

I couldn’t hang around any longer..it was onwards and upwards ..... if I was to get to the top

Eigg and a rough crossing

The forecast was for winds gusting up to 35 m.p.h. with showers and sunny spells and getting dryer for the evening. I wasn’t prepared to brave the seas in my own boat so I decided to catch the commercial boat from Arisaig to the island of Eigg.

I had discovered that in the summer months from the end of April until the end of September it sailed to Eigg then onto either Rum or Muck before returning to Eigg and then back to Arisaig. That meant that I had four hours ashore if I got off at Eigg before the boat returned. A plan was formed.

The Shearwater boat sails at 11am each morning however do check the timetables if you decide to take a trip as it varies where it goes depending on the day of the week. It was a nice bright but breezy morning when I went to catch the boat.



I was first to board so had my choice of seats. I wanted to get some photographs of the journey and although the rear seats looked inviting, I decided to sit just under the rear end of the canopy. My decision was based on previous experience in boats, even though I suspected my view could be obstructed by other passengers.



Sure enough, the boat soon filled with people and most headed for the rear seating. The boat made good headway in the sheltered waters of the South Channel of Loch nan Ceall. I managed one or two photos as the passengers looked happily at the seals and skerries but I was in no hurry to take photos. I guessed what would happen shortly.

Once we broke cover of the skerries, the waves began to break in the freshening winds.



Moments later a large wave broke and sent spume completely over the roof of the boat drenching the passengers sitting in the stern. Two of the younger ones, soaked to the skin tried to be braved and pretend it didn’t bother them, until another couple of waves came over the roof.



I then had my unobstructed view off the back of the boat. I was very glad I was in the commercial boat as my boat wouldn’t have stood a chance in the heavy seas.



Under an hour later we were pulling into the shelter of the harbour on Eigg.



That is when I got my first good look at the Sgurr of Eigg. This volcanic plug rises 1292 feet almost vertically from sea level and my plan was to get to the top and back to the harbour in time for the boat returning four hours later....