Loch Ailort and the silence of Eilean a’ Chaolais

After passing Eilean nan Gobhar, it was only a skip and a jump to Eilean a’ Chaolais at the north entrance of Loch Ailort. I was still running on auxiliary outboard and was keen to see if I could spend a little time and get the main engine working before crossing the open waters of Loch nan Uamh. Douglas was keen to have a look at his bandage again, and we were both looking for an excuse to stop for another lunch, so agreed to land at the sandy beach on Ardnish headland.

Rounding the rocky point of Eilean a’ Chaolais, I could see just how far the tide drops here by the markings on the rocks. It was around ten feet in height. That is a lot of water to move out to sea between high and low tide, but I had not detected any significant tidal flow since leaving Loch Moidart.



I was now homing in on the landing beach at Ardnish. The fish finder still showed 40ft of water below my keel so I knew it wasn't far to go.



However Douglas had another idea. He had spied a different sandy beach on Eilean a’ Chaolais and was making his way towards it. It's normally under water at high tide as I didn’t recall seeing it the last time I passed this way.



I followed him ashore and we both rested for a while in another place I can only describe as paradise.



The water was calm and crystal clear. Sand eels darted in the shallows. There were sandy bays separated by steep rocks decorated with orange and black seaweed. The sun danced happily through the hillside chased by the shadows of the clouds. But best of all, was the stunning silence in the landscape around us.



It didn’t last for long though. I had brought the main engine ashore and ask Douglas if he could assist trying to start it. He suggested removing the plug again and checking for a spark. I removed the plug and carefully supported the engine with one hand while I held the starter chord with the other hand. I asked Douglas if he could hold the plug onto the metal casing so it would spark while I pulled the chord.

He agreed. I pulled. The silence was broken.

Not by the sound of the engine starting but by a noisy cough, then a splutter followed by a curse. Alas for poor Douglas, the cylinder had been flooded with fuel which was why the engine wouldn’t start. When I pulled the starter cord, the excess petrol spurted out the plug hole and caught Douglas full in the face.

The good news was that when I assembled everything, the engine started with no further problems. I thanked Douglas and called him a star .. he called me something else but I didn’t quite catch what it was. To make amends, I offered to help him change the bloody bandage on his foot, but he politely declined my offer of help.



Not long after, we were back in the Sound of Arisaig, having passed through the Caolas a’ Bhogadain, rounded the end of Ardnish and were now heading for the many islands on the far side of Loch nan uamh.




Silence again returned to Eilean a’ Chaolais... my main engine was now throbbing happily ... while Douglas's toe was just throbbing again :(

Loch Ailort and Eilean nan Gobhar

Leaving Glenuig Bay, we set our course for Eilean Nan Gobhar in the middle of the entrance to Loch Ailort. If you have followed this blog for a while, you will know that I explored the beautiful Loch Ailort by inflatable boat last year and landed on Eilean nan Gobhar.



It was turning into a beautiful afternoon as we made our way to the island. The sea was calm and so were our moods. I think the beauty of the scenery even soothed the pain in Douglas’s leg.

At one point he shouted across..” This is what it’s all about Donald..things could be much worse.. we could be at work”

I nodded in agreement, in fact I took it to heart.

I handed my notice in on the second day back at work. I just couldn’t face another cold winter in the grey industrial mist where I work. I’m taking “a year out” and changing direction and its long overdue. Will I regret it ? You will just have to follow my blog to find out as even I dont know my future :-D

Im afraid that going on amazing journeys like this tend to change lives.

First we past the seaward side of Sgeir Ghlas, which is the dark island in the foreground. Rois Bheinn is the mountain in the misty background.



The rock ribs of Eilean nan Gobhar and the patchwork colours of the steep stoney slopes on the hills, looked splendid in the low afternoon sun.



The bothy at Peanmeanach stood proud in the surrounding ruins of the deserted village on the north shore of Loch Ailort. I hope to spend more time in that area next summer... when I have lots of time on my hands :-D



Although we didn’t go into Loch Ailort this time, I walked along its shores a couple of evening later to take some photographs. This is the public slipway at the start of Loch Ailort. Its not far after leaving the A830 and is easily missed. If you reach the mussel farm, you have gone too far.



This is the slip after the mussel farm and belongs to them. I believe if you ask permission they don’t object to using it but don’t block its entrance with a car or trailer..there is a lay by a hundred yards further down the road to park after launching a boat here.



This is a couple of views of the loch at low water. Its a shallow loch, full of little islands and has a charm all of its own.





This is the reason I decided not to try living only on the fish that I caught and the shellfish I collected for the duration of my holiday. The algal bloom poison was evident in the area :-(



Which reminds me ..after passing Eilean nan Gobhar.. we were both hungry so it was time to land again ...

Loch Ailort and the abandoned Peanmeanach village

It had been another hectic week at work so as soon as it was over I packed the inflatable boat into the car and headed north. I didn’t care where I was going, I just wanted away from computers and ringing phones. As I travelled north, I kept thinking of my recent journey to Arisaig so decided to head back that way. This time however I stopped at Loch Ailort instead of Loch Nan Ceall.

Arriving at the loch side around 21.00 hours I found a suitable lay by to park so I could sleep in the car overnight. It was a lovely calm evening and was the first time this year that the midges started to bother me. I was at the waters edge setting up my fishing rod when they descended in a black cloud. Fortunately the midge repellent stopped them biting but it was uncomfortable feeling them crawl over my face. I must invest in a midge net for my hat.

The sun soon soothed my itches with its golden touch. It was the best sunset I have witnessed this year.



Long after the sun had set, the afterglow still illuminated the sky, in fact it never really got dark that night. I love those long days and short light nights of June. Winter was long forgotten



I slept in the car until the sun started to rise and was dressed and ready to go at 4am. That’s when I took this photo of the islands of Eilean nan Gobhar and Sger Ghlas which are at the mouth of Loch Ailort. I was planning on exploring the larger of the two as the OS map shows it had two forts built on it.



I drove a couple of miles back to Alisary on the south shore of Loch Ailort because I wanted to explore the internal loch first and there was a reasonable park place with a launch point for the boat. Half an hour later it was inflated and in the water ready to go. There was still not a breath of wind and the tide was almost out. I had a happy heart as I set off to see places that I had never seen before.



I rowed across to the northern shores where there is no road. I was hoping to see an otter or two and some seals. As I drifted behind the island of Eilean Buide I discovered this abandoned fishing boat. With the Scottish fishing industry in decline, many have been abandoned round our shores. I guess it a sign of the times, just like many crofts and small highland villages were abandoned a few decades before.



As the fishing fleets declined, more and more seafood farms have appeared. I guess the locals have to earn a pound or two some way. I rowed down the line of buoys which support the ropes where the mussels grow. There were quite a few farms in the loch and little sign of seals. I couldn’t help wonder if there was a connection ?



Continuing west along the coast, I passed through the narrows between the mainland and Eilean nam Bairneach. I ate my breakfast as the boat drifted slowly through. When the tide turns, the current here will be as strong as a river.



As I went, I tried to note where rocks were that may be semi submerged on my return journey. I didn’t want a tear in the inflatable by hitting one. These two gulls look more at home here than scrabbling on the rubbish tips of the mainland.



I reached the abandoned village of Peanmeanach. The remaining croft which used to be the Post Office is now a bothy. The village was last inhabited around the 1940’s so it is not from the highland clearances. I guess it was just too isolated and hard to make a living. There were a couple of tents outside the village so I decided to continue to the next bay to land. I didn’t want to disturb their wilderness experience.



The waters around the coast are crystal clear, unlike the Firth of Forth or the Clyde which always look murky to me. There is a lovely sandy beach in front of this ruined croft



The cement stone walls prove its quite a recent croft



The view from the window was something to die for, I wondered who on earth would want to leave that view behind but I guess it’s a different story come winter ?



Next I set my sights on the Island of Eilean nan Gobhar, There was no tidal flow so it was an easy row across on the flat calm sea.



As I approached the island I had an sneaky feeling I was being watched.
Yup.. it was not a watch dog ..but this large gray seal that was keeping a close eye on me.



I landed on the Island and climbed to the highest point. Its only 40 meter high but what a view. I found the remains of the fort walls. I had read that it was a vitrified fort and wondered what that meant. When I say the remaining walls I discovered that it looked as though the stones were cemented together with lava. It turns out that around 2000 years ago, the fort builders built huge fires around the stone walls to melt the rocks together.



This is a view of the smaller island of Sger Ghlas. The only interest on it for me, was a few seabirds



A couple of cormorants were watching everything that passed their way



While these two mooning heron gulls were less interested in my progress



A little off shore of the islands ..I drifted with the fishing line down and caught my supper .. a Pollack of edible size. No mackerel were found ..I guess they have not arrived yet ?



I headed back for the mainland and rowed along the rocky coast. I saw every inch of the sea bed..the water was so clear.



I landed on a lovely sandy beach for lunch. I was now at my half way mark for this journey.



There was not a footprint to be seen in the sand. Not many people will visit this beach. You can just make out my boat at the end of the sands to give some scale to the beach



As I was having lunch..I couldn’t believe the sea fog which started to engulf everything. At one point I could only see around 50 yards in front of me. I headed for the launching point by following the coast when I could see it. I also made good use of my compass and map. Yup..even at sea you have to know how to navigate.



It wasn't until I was I was almost back at the launch point that the fog started to clear



When I landed, it was a lovely sunny day again



Then by the time I had deflated the boat and packed everything away, the fog was returning in the Sound of Arisaig.



Ah well..no matter..I was heading for home and I had a great day.