Arisaig again and the end of an epic

The thought of the campsite being just round the next island gave Douglas a new lease of life. In anticipation of a campfire and some real food for dinner, he started trolling his fishing line in the hope of catching a fresh mackerel.

There is nothing more satisfying for starters than a mackrerel BBQ’ed before rigor mortise has had time to stiffen the fish flesh.



We were now rounding Eilean a Ghaill which was the island we passed just before crossing the Sound of Arisaig the day before. What a difference a day makes to the ocean. The sea was flat calm and not a sign of swell anywhere. Although hardly 24 hours had passed since we made our way across to Moidart.. it felt like we had spent a few days in paradise. It really was an epic journey.



They say that two is company and three is a crowd, and perhaps its true for these cormorants sitting on the rocks just outside Port nam Murrach.

However I’m sure Douglas and myself would have happily shared the small camp ground at the port with another three, but we drew the line at sharing it with another dozen tents and a large Tepee. The camp ground was full !!



I debated with Douglas on our next move. Our choice was either to backtrack the way we had come, to a small pebble beach a mile or so back, or continue round the point and head for the campsite where we had left the cars.

I felt sorry for Douglas as he had to paddle whichever way we went and I could see the pain in his face when we decided to head back to the cars. It was another nine miles away and we were both starving. I then did something that I never thought I would ever do. I gave Douglas my last Mars bar. That is brotherly love at its best :-D

The only consolation ... it was a truly beautiful evening. There was not a breath of wind and the sea reflected everything around it.

The seals sat sleepily on their sea perches while the seagulls slept in silence. Douglas decided to paddle straight across the skerries of Loch Na Ceall to cut his distance down a little, while I chose to navigate the South Channel then out the North Channel. I needed the extra depth for the outboard.



Before we parted, I half joking said..

“Fancy going to Eigg instead..the crossing looks fine”

Douglas’s eyes lit up and I could see his initial thoughts were obviously ... “OK”

Then he remembered his injured foot and knee.. and he said..

”I would love to Donald ..but I better get my toe to hospital. I think it needs some stitches”

I guess that is when it really hit home to me how bad his foot was.

How could he turn down that offer of another adventure ?

We met up again on the other side of the skerries and both arrived back at the campsite and cars just as the sun set.



Douglas went home the next day and had his toe treated at the outpatients and Im glad to say its fine now.

Me ? ... well I was still up for more adventures.. so I went to Eigg myself .. stay tuned for that adventure very soon :-D


But first.. sincere thanks to my brother for taking me on that amazing journey. It really was an epic and I hope we can do some more together.

Thanks also for reliving it with me through the blogs.

If you have not seen the journey through Douglas’s eyes ..it worth reading it and you can catch it here on Seakakakphoto. http://seakayakphoto.blogspot.com

Arisaig and Loch Nan Ceall

Fortunately the following morning was neither so wet or windy as it had been the past couple of days. The wind was from the north west and forecast to drop to around 5 MPH during the afternoon. Douglas arrived mid morning and we were soon on the water heading for Loch Nan Ceall and the Arisaig skerries.

Leaving the campsite behind at Portnadoran which is north of Arisaig. Inland the clouds still bellowed grey but towards the west the sky was brightening and blue sky started appearing.



Douglas warming up in the first few hundred yards from shore. I still had choke engaged as my outboard engine warmed up.



There was still a good swell on the sea with the tide was still falling. While Douglas rock hopped close inshore to go round the rocky point to the entrance of Loch Nan Ceall, I had to go a fair distance to sea to avoid the semi submerged rocks in the area.

The sea was the roughest I have been in yet. With wind against the tide, the swell was now breaking in white water. Im certain some of the waves were well over five feet from peak to trough and several times the boat fell off the top of one wave with a sickening shudder as it hit the next wave. It felt like the boat was being dropped from a good height onto the water :-o

However the boat handled it well. I zig zagged my way round the point so the length of the boat was always either facing the waves or surfing with them. I admit that I dreaded the turns when the boat was at its most vulnerable in such a sea but I judged them between the worst waves and turned as quickly as I could. Sorry but there are no photos of this part of the journey..I had other things on my mind.

Soon we were in the shelter on the north channel of Loch Nan Ceall. The exposed skerries due to the low water offered shelter from the waves on the seaward side. I started to relax again and enjoy the scenery. Some poeple had landed and were walking on the exposed reefs looking for seashells. Douglas raised his sail and started to relaxed too.



Photographs from a boat don’t really do this part of the journey the justice it deserves because of the low view point but it really is an amazing experience moving through the many water channels between the rocks. Some flow like rivers as the tide empties the loch, other channels are easier to move through as they are not exposed to the currents.



It is like a maze trying to find a way through some of the channels and several times I had to backtrack to keep the outboard in water. Douglas slid through with ease with his shallow beam



The skerries are backdropped with the most magnificent views over to Eigg and Rhum.



Little sandy bays are everywhere among the seaweed strewn rocks.



Even the yachtie’s love this special place and moor in the sheltered waters at low tide.



However it is the many seals that add the icing on the cake for me.
Loch Nan Ceall boasts one of the biggest seal colonies in Scotland.

There are on the rocks.



They stand up in the water.



They lie down in the water



They are everywhere and follow the boats out of curiosity.
Look out Douglas that is a large grey behind you and he has his eye on you.



We then exited Loch Nan Ceall by the south channel.



I checked the map to see where we were going to go now.




You can follow Douglas's account of the journey on his web site too :-D


http://seakayakphoto.blogspot.com/2011/09/thank-goodness-for-sea-kayaking.html

Arisaig and Loch nan Ceall

The next inflatable journey was not until May. I decided to go a couple of days camping at Arisaig to see the sea skerries and seal colony at the mouth of Loch Nan Ceall.

The weather was very kind but the north wind was bitterly cold. It brought to mind the old Scottish saying “ Ne’er cast a cloot, till May is oot” I slept in the car for warmth and put my stores in the tent. This is a photo of my inflatable in a little natural harbour beside the camp site. It was taken the only time the wind dropped and the waters calmed.



The first night I couldn’t wait to get to the skerries so got into the little boat and rounded the point of Eilean Ighe to enter the north channel. I used the outboard motor and with the wind and waves, possibly the tide too, we surfed along at a great pace of knots. In fact, I was a little surprised at how fast I was going. I decided not to hang around in the north channel in case the waves became bigger, so turned the boat for home. That’s when I discovered just how wet a little inflatable boat can get. It does not cut through on coming waves, they were coming on over the bow. I soon learned what a bailer was for, its just a pity I didn’t think to bring one.

I survived the evening swim inside the inflatable and watch the sun set from the safety of the shore. This is a view of the campsite at Back of Keppoch, with the plateau of Sgurr an t-Sasunnaich in the background.



Then I watched the after glow behind the hills on the island of Rhum. It was particularly red this evening and presumed it was the volcanic ash from Iceland being illuminated. It had grounded all flights too and from northern Europe. I looked forward to exploring the skerries in more detail in the morning.



The following morning the wind was still from the north but not quite as strong ? I like to think Im a quick learner though I appreciate that people who know me are entitled to their own opinion.

This time I decided I should approach the skerries from the south. That way, once across the south channel, I would be in the shelter of the skerries and if the wind and waves worsened, I would have the conditions behind me, helping to get back to shore instead of fighting into them.

I launched at the old pier near Tor Mor and the south channel crossing was easy. I stayed dry the whole way and the outboard motor made easy work of it. The tide was full out so landed on a sandbar to explores some of the skerries by foot. The inflatable was hauled well up the beach to avoid the incoming tide carrying it away.

I went to explore the skerries and look for photographic views. The skerries are a series of islands, rock formations and sandbars that are exposed at low tide but mostly disappear under water when the tide comes in. It was a little like exploring a gigantic fish aquarium that had the water removed for cleaning. Much of the sandbar was made of ground coral and broken shells



I love the way nature seems to make abstract art work and this seaweed attached to the stone is an example. Its beautifully fanned out flat on the sand by the receding tide, yet within six hours it will be standing proud and dancing with delight in the waterway currents, trying to reach the surface of the sea.



On the few skerries that are in fact islands, I wondered if any landweeds would survive such a harsh salt sea environment. I discovered some primrose in spring bloom on the larger islands.



And of course I knew the sea pinks would love the salt sea air. They are beautiful in spring time.



I was also hoping to see some of the local inhabitants of the skerries. It has one of the largest seal colonies on the north west of Scotland. I scanned the skerries as I walked but didn’t see one ? Perhaps I was too distracted by the views as the sun started to shine. The island in the distance is the Isle of Eigg



I was also keeping a close eye on the tide. The water rises very quickly once the tide turns and I didn’t want to loose the inflatable.



I made it back to the boat in plenty of time and started to row among the rocks as the water started to rise. My course was of course set for the north channel again.



I had a lot of fun rowing in the shallow sheltered sea. Sometimes the channels between skerries proved difficult to row against the tide, other channels were easy by following the back eddies. I was loving this new life and getting to terms with the jargon too. A month ago I couldn’t have told you about a back eddie even if it was staring me in the front of my face. I landed on this skerry beside the north channel for lunch



It was a quick lunch as the land around us was disappearing at an alarming rate. Waterways became deeper and deeper. I explored ever nook and cranny as I rowed on my way. I was looking of the elusive seals ?



Then exactly on the stroke of midday, the magic hour began. First I spied this seal sitting on a rock in front of me and just managed a photo before the tide swept me quickly past.



Then they all began to appear in the water around the boat. In the end, I wondered if I was looking at them, or where they there examining me ? One thing is for sure, I were in their element and as such, I guess I was their guest.



The wind and waves did get up a little at high tide, but I was very happy to have seen what I came to see. My plan worked a treat and the wind, waves, tide and two horse power outboard, propelled me back to the car.



That evening I watched watch the sunset once again over the Isle of Rhum. It truly was a day in heaven.