Skye and the road to Armadale

Heading back to Broadford on the main road, the next road on the left is the main road to Armadale. There is a ferry terminal there which connects with Mallaig on the mainland.

A tip if you use such devices as Sat Nav etc, but many people from the south set their route to Portree on Skye and unknown to them it calculates the shortest route which is via the ferry from Mallaig to Armadale. They arrive at Mallaig before they realise their mistake and then find the next ferry is in the morning so have to backtrack a hundred miles or so to cross by the Skye Bridge. I know several southerners who have done this so know its a common error.

When I stayed in Broadford I often got up for the sunrise and headed for the Armadale road. The sunrises over Loch Airigh on the moors and Loch Na Dall on the coast were stunning, especially in the winter when the sun rose around eight AM.

Skye, Kylerhea and Sgurr na Coinnich

Around half way from the Skye bridge to Broadford you will see a narrow single track road branch off to the left. It heads up over the hills to Kylerhea where there is still a small summer ferry crossing the Kyle Rhea sound to the mainland near Glenelg.

There is a short walk near Kylerhea that leads to an Otter Haven, an observation post overlooking the shore. You can often see otters swimming in the sea here. I saw the otters on several occasions but always found it a bit disappointing as the hut is so far from the water that binoculars are a must.

The trip to Kylerhea doesn’t disappoint as it winds its way up the hills then crests the Bealach Udal which offers great views over to Glenelg.

Looking back down the single track road towards the islands of Pabay, Scalpay, Longay and Raasay in the distance with its distinct peak of Dun Caan.



Looking towards Glenelg from the Bealach Udal. The steep slopes of Sgurr na Coinnich are on the left. I climbed to its summit twice during by stay on Skye. The first time was when the tops were shrouded in mist.



Looking over the Bealach Udal towards Ben Aslak from half way up Sgurr na Coinnich



Looking towards Glenelg from half way up Sgurr na Coinnich. The photo was taken just below cloud level. I climbed the rest of the way in a blanket of mist.



I didn’t have a map or compass with me as it was a spur of the moment walk, so followed my instinct. I hoped the north westerly wind wouldn’t change direction as I watched the way the cotton tuffs were blowing and kept the wind in my face to hopefully prevent me walking in a circle.



I made the summit but there was no views. I memorised the slopes and steep parts on the way up as there was no path to follow either. I returned safely too but I wouldn’t recommend others doing it without a compass or map. I should mention that I had studied the OS map closely and even surveyed the steep slope from the bealach the week before when the summit was clear, so knew what to expect and look out for.



Because I had missed out on the views because of the mist, I returned the next evening and it was completely different conditions. The views were superb.



This one is looking over Kyleakin and the Skye bridge towards the Kyles of Lochalsh on the mainland.



But the best view was undoubtedly looking towards the main Cuillin hills over on the west.

Skye and heading for Broadford

Most visitors to the Island will make a right turn once they cross the Skye bridge and start heading for Broadford ,Armadale , Portree, or wherever. The road is quite straight and fast so people tend to miss the quiet backwater and little bays of the coast before the islands airstrip. Its when I take the time to explorer places like those bays that time seems to slow down again.

I find that a camera is a great tool for relieving stress. It forces me to slow down and look for the scenic parts of the world. Nowadays, I can’t imagine going a walk without a camera. It would be like a fisherman going to a loch without a rod or a golfer going to a golf course without a set of clubs.

A couple of the little bays heading for Broadford after crossing the Skye Bridge.





Lovely views start opening up of the Red Cuillin and hills around Broadford as you drive along the road. Its not always lovely sunsets.. in fact .. its often just a sea of mist.. but when it is clear it is wonderful.



However when the sky starts to turn red at the end of the day.. you know you are in paradise.

Kyleakin and long days of long ago

There are some journeys that we will never forget during our lifetime. One that I will never forget, was my first visit to the Isle of Skye. It was in 1975 and I travelled from Ayrshire with my elder brother and a friend. Our transport was by our motor bikes which were among some of the first Japanese machines to hit the UK.

I drove a Yamaha DT175 Trail bike and felt like I was sitting on an Easy Rider hog special. It took from very early morning to late at night to reach Skye. In those days it was still an Island. Access was by a ferry from the Kyle of Lochalsh to Kyleakin. In fact we went on a couple of ferries as the bridge at Ballahulish was not yet built.

There was always long queues of cars waiting to cross by ferry and we loved driving past them on our bikes because the ferry crew fitted us between the cars already on board. However it didn’t stop harassed drivers still waiting in the queue from throwing us the dirty looks much loved by rebellious youngsters

In those days, time seemed to last forever, just like that journey to Skye. Now it only takes around five hours to do the same journey in this modern fast paced world. Sadly, those long days of old when time seemed to stand still also seem to go much faster.

I cant decide whether it is because Im older or whether it is the modern pace of life that has shortened my days but I want to find a way to slow things down again so I can enjoy the scenery passing by instead of watching just a blur flash by. I have had enough of fast cars and fast foods to last the rest of my life.

I work in an industry where everyone wants everything done yesterday and they start throwing tantrums if its not done. Its all my fault that it wasn’t done even though Im positive they didn’t know what they wanted done in the first place. Im sure if I can get rid of that stress then my days will slow down to a pace that I can enjoy again.

Nowadays Kyleakin is just a quiet backwater. In fact many visitors to Skye hardly see it. In the days before the bridge, it was one of the busiest town on the Island as harassed drivers threw dirty looks at bikers as they queued the length of the town waiting on the ferry.

Looking across the harbour at Lochalsh towards Kyleakin on Skye. Most drivers turn right when the cross the bridge so don’t even know of its existence.



The ferry ramp is often covered in lobster pots and fish boxes. The queuing cars have long caught the last ferry home.



The local inhabitants must still reflect on those days of old. The passing visitors brought their bread and butter.



Now they have to fish for it. Its still a busy little fishing port on a good day



The ruins of Dunakin Castle must have see a lot of boats at anchor since the days the Viking longships moored in its shadow, before heading for the battle of Largs. That would have been a long slow journey too. I wonder if they suffered from industrial stress ?

The Magic of Skye

A couple of years ago, I thought I had won the lottery. No.... It felt better than winning the lottery.

The company I worked for asked if I wanted to do a year’s work on the Island of Skye. It had always been a dream of mine to retire there so I jumped at the chance. I wasn’t thinking about the work aspect. I was thinking about the photographic experience of capturing the Island in all kinds of weather and lighting conditions. I was dreaming of walks in the hills in the long light evenings of summer. I was longing for the peace and solitude of Broadford far away from the claustrophobic rat race of the city.

I hope to post many of the photos that I took of the sights that I saw as I made my way round the Island, by car, foot and boat. The magic journey starts on the mainland at the Kyle of Lochalsh.

Looking across Loch Alsh towards Sgurr na Coinnich on the east end of Skye



Boats moored at the Kyle harbour



The glass bottomed boat at the Kyle Pier. The Skye bridge in the background



The Skye bridge from the Kyle of Lochalsh



The Skye bridge bathing in the afterglow of a summer sunset

A change in direction and a change in heart

I find that things don’t always go according to plan, the expected is suddenly affected by the unexpected, and the only way to get back on track is by taking a complete change in direction.

Perhaps that is just a clever way of saying I must be going through the male menopause as my moods change with the weather. However its when the weather changes that I paint my more unusual paintings.

These two watercolours are recent examples of the thoughts that go through my head on the wetter days in my life.

They are full of meaning and how you interpret them is completely up to yourself... My own interpretation varies with the weather :-D







I was planning to have an easy time this year and take a “year out” to go “walk about” after the last company I worked for lost all their work to a competitor. I was looking forward to spending my free time developing and promoting my painting style, my photography and anything else that I could do that didn’t involve major stress and perhaps generate a penny or two. Im at the vulnerable age for strokes and heart attacks because I have blood pressure which could easily inflate my inflatable boat and thats on a calm day.

So what has changed ? I was TUPE’d across to the company that won the work. (By law..when a company takes over the work of another company..it has to take on its employees on the same terms and conditions as they had)

I don’t believe in TUPE as I have already been TUPE’d once and I lost out regardless of what the law states. Its happening again and my new employer is trying to exploit the situation again. I also have far more stress in my life because of it.

So What’s new..the UK is in a recession so we must suffer ? Uh..no ..fortunately Im in the lucky position that I have a choice ..I can still go walk abouts.

Im putting up with it for a little while to see how it settles ..but like the weather.. my mood can change very quickly.

If you have been following my latest adventure, I apologise for the mood I went through the last couple of days. For one reason or another I closed the blog to allow me to change direction.

Why ? Well like my paintings..I leave the interpretation up to yourselves :-D Keep following the blog and perhaps all will become clear.

In the mean time..I spent a year on the beautiful Island of Skye and have quite a collection of photos from it..I will start posting "the Magic of Skye" ..until I get back on track. I hope you will follow that adventure too.

Loch Fyne and the launch point survey

I have been kept very busy lately and am preparing for all the changes that are happening in my life at present. I finished working for the company today after handing the works car, keys and phone back, then Im flying to New Orleans tomorrow until the end of the month. I can’t wait as Im meeting up with my friend again and we hope to get lost in the solitude of a little log cabin in the Mississippi delta before taking in the start of Mardi Gras celebrations in New Orleans. I will post my adventures on my return.

I have also been making preparations for future boat journeys on my return. As mentioned earlier I am going to be the proud owner of my father’s last boat. Its a 12ft Highland Family Fisher powered by a 4HP outboard. The boat weighs 150kg and requires the use of a trailer to get it around. I have now got a tow bar fitted to the car and have been making space for the boat to sit beside the house.

This brings the problem of where to launch the boat so I went to Loch Fyne to survey for possible launch points. Once I find a suitable place, I hope that by making use of a hand winch to assist, I can get the boat and trailer up and down to the water’s edge on my own. Im certain its just a matter of technique rather than strength, but time will tell.

For the launch point, I was looking for a place with plenty parking room, an easy angle to the sea and a beach with a solid base. I was pleased to find a few places that looked suitable at first glance.

The pier at St Catherine’s has good parking and my car can easily get on the concrete. By clearing the winter seaweed away from the shore beside the ramp..it looked a solid enough base to get the trailer down to the water without the wheels digging in. There are also a few iron rings embedded in the pier where I could anchor the winch to pull it back up the beach, or perhaps just tie a long rope to the trailer and attach it to the car to pull it up. All worthy of a try.





There were two places at Strachur that looked suitable for beach access too. This one didn’t have much parking room but was an obvious launch point. The signs warn fishermen to keep their rods low as there is a low slung high voltage cable just over head. The other place looked a little further to drag the trailer over the sand but there were a few boats there so it is a local launch point.



I liked the look of the access point at Lachlan Castle. It was by far the most scenic spot with a large car park and great views over to the ruined castle. Although the water was a distance from the access, the shore was firm and flat. I have been toying with the idea of using inflatable rollers designed for launching boats ..to roll the boat the last few feet from the trailer into the water and also to get the boat out the water and onto land before winching back onto the trailer. If its a bit far to drag the trailer here, I could try rolling the boat on the rollers. The tide was half out at the time of this photo. The biggest problem I saw was the drive was down a single track road with passing places. I have yet to try reversing a trailer so this spot will not be the first launch point.



It was a reasonable morning so I took a walk along to look at the old castle.



I was surprised that it wasn’t closed off and I could wander round the inside without any problems.



I then went down to Otter Ferry to study its possibilities. The rain was horizontal when I arrived and even the sand pipers looked miserable with their beaks held low and into the storm. Its definitely not my kind of boating weather yet.



Otter Ferry is another possibility. The access to the shore is good. Parking is good and there are plenty of places to anchor a winch. The hotel offers bar lunches and I could imagine sitting outside during a lovely sunny summers day. The only thing I didn’t like was the long drive down the single track road towing a trailer. When I try this launch point, I will travel early in the morning before there are many vehicles on the road.





This is the place that I hope I will try for my first launch point. It has good parking, hard shore, and a little concrete ramp to access the shore. Im standing at the waters edge and the tide is not yet fully in. Not to far to winch the trailer back to the car which can easily pull it back up the concrete ramp. Road access is good too..no single track roads and not to far to travel either. Its away from houses so there shouldn't be an audience on my first launch and recovery experiments :-o



Im looking forward to the warmer weather arriving and trying out the new boat.